Day Two in Iceland: Chasing Waterfalls and Geysers

Our second day in Iceland greeted us with sunny, beautiful weather. After packing up our campsite, we set off towards Brúarfoss, a bright blue waterfall we'd read about in several blogs. Many posts highlighted how tricky it is to find, and they weren't exaggerating. The trail to Brúarfoss is unmarked, so it's crucial to pay close attention to directions. We got lost a couple of times but eventually found our way by following other visitors who had just returned from the falls.

Despite the challenges, Brúarfoss was worth the effort. The stunning blue hue of the water was captivating, and we enjoyed some peaceful time there with only one other person around. If you're planning a visit, check for recent directions, as paths and markers can change and it is around private property (note this post was originally written in 2017).

Next, we drove to Geysir, a popular tourist spot. Watching the geyser build up pressure and erupt was exhilarating, and the vivid blue color right before the explosion added to the excitement. We stayed longer than planned, entranced by the spectacle every five minutes. Afterward, we shopped at the nearby store, grabbing coffee and beer (the strong kind, not the 2.25% grocery store version).

From Geysir, we headed to Gullfoss, an awe-inspiring waterfall both in size and beauty. Despite the crowds, the area is spacious enough to find great photo spots. A raincoat is essential due to the far-reaching mist, which we forgot. There are two parking options: one at the top of the falls and another lower down to avoid stairs. A visit to the nearby store revealed its expansion, likely due to increasing tourism.

We also learned about Sigriður Tómasdóttir, Iceland’s first environmentalist. Her barefoot trek from Gullfoss to Reykjavik to protest the harnessing of the falls for electricity left a lasting impact, ensuring the falls remained protected.

After Gullfoss, we journeyed to Gjáin in the Þjórsárdalur valley. The road had a 4x4 warning, and technically our van could have handled it but we didn’t trust ourselves with the rental, so we decided to walk, which took about 45 minutes each way. The terrain resembled Mars, but Gjáin was like a fairy garden, with waterfalls and footpaths. Unlike other tourist spots, Gjáin isn't roped off, allowing us to explore freely and take unobstructed photos. It was a hidden gem and one of our favorite spots in Iceland. This experience is one that wants to draw us back to Iceland, but in official 4WD vehicles, to take us deeper into the lesser traveled sections of this beautiful country.

Finally, we visited Háifoss, reached by a rugged road not marked as 4x4 only. The drive was long but manageable, and we were glad we didn't attempt to walk. The falls were phenomenal, with a deeper and equally impressive valley compared to Gullfoss. The wind was strong at the top, so we had to keep a safe distance from the edge.

Our journey back included a 20-minute detour, but we eventually made our way to a campsite in Hvolsvöllur. Finding the campground was tricky due to incorrect GPS coordinates in the Iceland Camping Card book. Fortunately, a local woman guided us. The campground, run by a friendly farm owner, was charming. We planned to have a beer with her, but the northern lights stole the show. We spent two hours watching them with a German couple, capturing a memorable photo of our camper van under the lights.

The day's clear and sunny weather, with temperatures around 10º – 13ºC (50-55 F), made for a comfortable and unforgettable adventure.